Brake pad questions

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Rocwandrer
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Sun Oct 13, 2013 9:21 pm

robinlsb wrote:ATE super blue is now (August , 2013)illegal, so it might be hard to find it :(



I have 4 quarts, bought after the ban... :D I don't need 4 qts myself...

I would recommend any dot 4 bought for wet boiling point rating, given you've never changed it in 25k. Up to the boiling point all dot 4 fluids are functionally identical, and the super high dry rating is meaningless if you don't change it regularly. ATE superblue (or the legal ATE 200 whatever), are among the better choices that way.

kustomizm
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby kustomizm » Sun Oct 13, 2013 10:36 pm

Are these clutch safe? Sorry as I understand the clutch uses the brake fluid too... Does that sound correct?
Derek R. #30 Silver 2011 Ford Mustang GT

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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Mon Oct 14, 2013 9:37 am

kustomizm wrote:Are these clutch safe? Sorry as I understand the clutch uses the brake fluid too... Does that sound correct?


Clutches generally use dot3/4 fluid, and generally have their own reservoir, a completely separate system from the brakes. The reservoir cap generally calls out the fluid type, and if it says dot3 OR it says dot4 then it is dot3 AND dot4 compatible.

kustomizm
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby kustomizm » Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:52 pm

Can you get the ATE Superblue locally? Still thinking brakes. Not sure if I will upgrade the stockers or just jump for a whole kit. With rotors, lines, pads and OEM Brembos. These are direct bolt in.
Derek R. #30 Silver 2011 Ford Mustang GT

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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:06 pm

kustomizm wrote:Can you get the ATE Superblue locally? Still thinking brakes. Not sure if I will upgrade the stockers or just jump for a whole kit. With rotors, lines, pads and OEM Brembos. These are direct bolt in.

You can't get ATE superblue at retail anywhere in the US anymore.

If you just run it on the street and at autocross, why spend all that money?

robinlsb
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby robinlsb » Tue Mar 04, 2014 6:51 am

You can get Super Blue on-line. It's just sold as for off road or racing purposes only.
Robin

kustomizm
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby kustomizm » Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:11 am

Is it safe for street use? When I look at TireRack.com and there are many types of fluid available. Any opinions on the types of fluid.
Derek R. #30 Silver 2011 Ford Mustang GT

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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:44 am

robinlsb wrote:You can get Super Blue on-line. It's just sold as for off road or racing purposes only.

got a link?

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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:48 am

kustomizm wrote:Is it safe for street use? When I look at TireRack.com and there are many types of fluid available. Any opinions on the types of fluid.



The only thing unsafe about it is that someone might confuse it with something other than brake fluid. I you are worried about it, there are plenty of other good fluids. Honestly, fresh generic dot4 is probably substantially better than 30k mile old best stuff ever.

You want DOT4. Buy by wet boiling point, not dry. If you don't do superblue, go for something clear, so it is easier to see when it is flushed.

robinlsb
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby robinlsb » Tue Mar 04, 2014 10:11 am

Rocwandrer wrote:
robinlsb wrote:You can get Super Blue on-line. It's just sold as for off road or racing purposes only.

got a link?



https://www.google.com/search?q=ate+sup ... 9685548385
Robin

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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Tue Mar 04, 2014 10:19 am

robinlsb wrote:
Rocwandrer wrote:
robinlsb wrote:You can get Super Blue on-line. It's just sold as for off road or racing purposes only.

got a link?



https://www.google.com/search?q=ate+sup ... 9685548385


Thanks :? ebay is the only place I see there that you might actually be able to buy it. The others are either directed at out of stock listings or redirect to the type 200 amber.

kustomizm
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby kustomizm » Tue Mar 04, 2014 10:10 pm

Do you think just pads and fluid will help? I just feel the bite is lacking and pedal feel. Do people still turn the rotors or just get new ones? Still contemplating OEM Brembos too. Obviously the stock 2 piston brakes are lacking compared to the 4 piston Brembos. But will little changes pads, fluid, etc. net the same effect for less on the autocross track. On a roadcourse obviously it wouldn't. Speeds are less, but its heavy.
Derek R. #30 Silver 2011 Ford Mustang GT

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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Wed Mar 05, 2014 12:17 am

kustomizm wrote:Do you think just pads and fluid will help? I just feel the bite is lacking and pedal feel. Do people still turn the rotors or just get new ones? Still contemplating OEM Brembos too. Obviously the stock 2 piston brakes are lacking compared to the 4 piston Brembos. But will little changes pads, fluid, etc. net the same effect for less on the autocross track. On a roadcourse obviously it wouldn't. Speeds are less, but its heavy.



Short version:

Will the ABS currently engage if you mash the pedal hard enough? Yes? Then change the fluid and focus on finding the right pads! If you don't want to mess around, carbotech ax-6 are the gold standard for autocross. Hawk hp/hp+ are the good & cheapish end of the "people like them" spectrum for your car.

kustomizm
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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby kustomizm » Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:09 am

New rotors too? These are not glass smooth. I can turn them or get new ones too.
Derek R. #30 Silver 2011 Ford Mustang GT

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Re: Brake pad questions

Postby Rocwandrer » Wed Mar 05, 2014 11:17 am

kustomizm wrote:New rotors too? These are not glass smooth. I can turn them or get new ones too.


I'm not sure we should have an opinion on that without seeing them and knowing what pad type they have now vs what pad type you plan to put on.

Rotors that have been used with one pad and not cleaned (turned down) can sometimes interfere with the bed-in of the new pad, especially if it is a different chemistry type.

If you don't turn or replace them and they aren't planar and smooth, pedal feel will generally suck for a good long while after changing pads, which will make back to back comparison impractical, and is way less fun with an upgrade.

For some perspective on turning rotors, 1.8 miatas have bigger brakes than 1.6 miatas, so naturally in classes where update backdate is allowed, people often run the 1.6 brakes on the 1.8 cars. Because they are lighter. And we don't really need thermal mass at autocross. :D Some people turn their rotors to save weight legally in stock class. Personally, I don't think that is anywhere near worth the downsides of shorter (or much shorter in my experience) rotor life after turning and further reduced thermal mass, so my attitude for my own cars is that turning rotors is a waste of money. I've settled on a pads type and I'll live with a funky pedal feel for a few hundred miles at pad change time, though. I'm on my 4th pad change on the stock rotors, and I'll do new rotors with the next pad change, because they are starting to be significantly not flat, and while over the minimum thickness spec, they are starting to go bell shaped.


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